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No matter how many thousands of miles a se7en may cover, its owner will never consider it a finished project. There is always an upgrade, always a modification around the corner that prevents him from washing his hands and calling it done. So a page on this website entitled “Spec” is certain to be anything but static.
Engine
2.0L Duratec from 2002 European Ford Mondeo. The spec of this engine has morphed over the years. V1 utilized stock cams and internals and made ~195hp. V2 substituted Kent DTEC10 cams, stiffer valve springs, lightly ported head, and ARP rod bolts for ~210hp (174hp at the rear wheels on a Mustang dyno – see graph at right). Current version was completely rebuilt, uses more aggressive cams, and upgraded internals. The exhaust is undersized for the new engine and was expected to make ~225hp vs. the 240hp possible with a properly sized exhaust. According to the race shop that did final tuning, using the expected conversion factor they've seen when running the same engines on both their chassis dyno and proper engine dyno on a car like a se7en, that's precisely what it hit. The flat line from 6700-8000rpm validates that a bigger exhaust would increase that quite a bit. The dyno sheet is available here.
The full spec is: 2.0L Duratec bored 0.5mm over, 88mm 11.7:1 Omega forged pistons (~12:1 actual due to head & block each being decked 0.005"), K1 forged rods, lightly ported head w/reprofiled valves, Kent DTEC20 cams & stiffer valve springs, ARP head, main, & rod bolts, keyed crank, deburred oil passages, Jenvey 45mm DTHTB w/90mm air horns, Emerald K3 w/AEM X-Series wide band 02 sensor, larger flow-matched injectors, Raceline water rail, flywheel and wet sump, AP Racing HD clutch & pressure plate, fully balanced bottom end, Custom 4-2-1 ceramic coated exhaust manifold, Raceco silencer, and Ballistic Performance EVO2 LiFePO4 battery. The rebuild is detailed in this thread on USA7s.com. A short video showing acceleration in 1st & 2nd gears with 8000rpm shift points (50mph and 76mph respectively) is available here. For best viewing, change the quality to 2160 if it defaults to something lower. It does highlight traction issues and gives a good idea of the engine's angry voice.
Transmission & Diff
BGH long1st gear HD (E2) gearbox with their Westfield gear lever extension & short shift kit, 3.62 LSD Sierra diff.
Suspension & Brakes
Cat Motorsport wide track front suspension, alloy hubs, alloy 4-pot calipers, uprated/shimmed AP Racing master cylinder, quick ratio steering rack, and alloy steering rack mounts, Protech alloy shocks with spherical mounts, Caterham 13x6” wheels, 205/60-13 Toyo R-A1 tires, H&R 1” bolt on spacers on the rear.
Alignment Settings & Weight Distribution (with driver)
Engine
2.0L Duratec from 2002 European Ford Mondeo. The spec of this engine has morphed over the years. V1 utilized stock cams and internals and made ~195hp. V2 substituted Kent DTEC10 cams, stiffer valve springs, lightly ported head, and ARP rod bolts for ~210hp (174hp at the rear wheels on a Mustang dyno – see graph at right). Current version was completely rebuilt, uses more aggressive cams, and upgraded internals. The exhaust is undersized for the new engine and was expected to make ~225hp vs. the 240hp possible with a properly sized exhaust. According to the race shop that did final tuning, using the expected conversion factor they've seen when running the same engines on both their chassis dyno and proper engine dyno on a car like a se7en, that's precisely what it hit. The flat line from 6700-8000rpm validates that a bigger exhaust would increase that quite a bit. The dyno sheet is available here.
The full spec is: 2.0L Duratec bored 0.5mm over, 88mm 11.7:1 Omega forged pistons (~12:1 actual due to head & block each being decked 0.005"), K1 forged rods, lightly ported head w/reprofiled valves, Kent DTEC20 cams & stiffer valve springs, ARP head, main, & rod bolts, keyed crank, deburred oil passages, Jenvey 45mm DTHTB w/90mm air horns, Emerald K3 w/AEM X-Series wide band 02 sensor, larger flow-matched injectors, Raceline water rail, flywheel and wet sump, AP Racing HD clutch & pressure plate, fully balanced bottom end, Custom 4-2-1 ceramic coated exhaust manifold, Raceco silencer, and Ballistic Performance EVO2 LiFePO4 battery. The rebuild is detailed in this thread on USA7s.com. A short video showing acceleration in 1st & 2nd gears with 8000rpm shift points (50mph and 76mph respectively) is available here. For best viewing, change the quality to 2160 if it defaults to something lower. It does highlight traction issues and gives a good idea of the engine's angry voice.
Transmission & Diff
BGH long1st gear HD (E2) gearbox with their Westfield gear lever extension & short shift kit, 3.62 LSD Sierra diff.
Suspension & Brakes
Cat Motorsport wide track front suspension, alloy hubs, alloy 4-pot calipers, uprated/shimmed AP Racing master cylinder, quick ratio steering rack, and alloy steering rack mounts, Protech alloy shocks with spherical mounts, Caterham 13x6” wheels, 205/60-13 Toyo R-A1 tires, H&R 1” bolt on spacers on the rear.
Alignment Settings & Weight Distribution (with driver)
|
Camber
Front: -2.57L/-2.58R Rear: -1.54L/-1.46R Front/Rear Balance Front: 46.9% Rear: 53.1% |
Toe (total)
Front: 16 min toe out Rear: 24 min toe in Cross Weights Left Front + Right Rear: 50% Right Front + Left Rear: 50% |
Chassis Rake
+20mm rear to front |
Interior
Motogadget tach/speedo/digital display unit, DRE sequential shift lights, Spa Alpha 270mm Steering wheel with buttons for turn signals/hazards, digital dash display, and high beams, Cadent Technologies SmartFlash turn signal/brake light module, Mog carbon fiber seats, Schroth Profi II ASM harnesses, custom center console with hidden storage compartment.
Body
Range Rover tail lights, custom roll over bar w/ 3rd brake light, custom lexan wind deflectors and roll-up bikini top, Spa mirrors, custom locking boot lid designed to work with roll bar, custom aluminum boot box to increase capacity, larged grill opening and adjustable ducting for the radiator.
Weight
As I have discussed elsewhere in this website, I am a big fan of Colin Chapman’s famous mantra “add lightness.”
Carving weight out of a car improves everything about it: acceleration, braking, handling, fuel consumption, total load of Murphy’s Irish Cream Stout it can carry without bottoming out, etc. When the decision was made to rebuild the
entire car and replace the engine with the Duratec, I decided to get the car’s weight down a bit further to really shake things up.
First off, the Duratec with aluminum bell housing and Direct-to-Head Throttle Bodies would cut about 20-30lbs from
the front end. Second, going with CAT Motorsport’s alloy front hubs, and 4-pot calipers, would shave off another 15lbs. and third there were the ultra light MOG carbon fiber seats… Okay, so now you see where this is going.
In the interest of research, I bought an accurate scale that records up to 30lbs. and began the process of weighing
old parts as I remove them and new parts as they arrive from vendors. Unfortunately in the chaos that accompanies
moving into a new house I misplaced a piece of paper where I had logged many of the weights, so the list in this spreadsheet is not complete, but it does give a sense of where weight was saved. How much weight? Well when the car was in Road & Track, they listed the weight as 1405lb. I am not sure how much fuel was on board (and they never returned any of my e-mails on this subject, despite many years as a subscriber - the bastards!) but suffice it to say, the car is now much lighter.
After the rebuild I had the car corner balanced with ~4 gallons of fuel and it tipped the scales at 1239 lb. I later made some additional changes that increased the weight by 6 lb. (rear wheel spacers at 2 lb/ea and a heavier duty fan that was 2 lb heavier), and others that shaved over 22 lb (3-1/4 lb savings from the plastic valve cover, 5lb. savings from the Protech alloy shocks, 11 lb moving from a PC680 battery to an EVO2 LiFePO4 battery, and 3-1/4 lb from the
removal of the upper shock mount truss). So the weight should be down to about 1223 lb.
Motogadget tach/speedo/digital display unit, DRE sequential shift lights, Spa Alpha 270mm Steering wheel with buttons for turn signals/hazards, digital dash display, and high beams, Cadent Technologies SmartFlash turn signal/brake light module, Mog carbon fiber seats, Schroth Profi II ASM harnesses, custom center console with hidden storage compartment.
Body
Range Rover tail lights, custom roll over bar w/ 3rd brake light, custom lexan wind deflectors and roll-up bikini top, Spa mirrors, custom locking boot lid designed to work with roll bar, custom aluminum boot box to increase capacity, larged grill opening and adjustable ducting for the radiator.
Weight
As I have discussed elsewhere in this website, I am a big fan of Colin Chapman’s famous mantra “add lightness.”
Carving weight out of a car improves everything about it: acceleration, braking, handling, fuel consumption, total load of Murphy’s Irish Cream Stout it can carry without bottoming out, etc. When the decision was made to rebuild the
entire car and replace the engine with the Duratec, I decided to get the car’s weight down a bit further to really shake things up.
First off, the Duratec with aluminum bell housing and Direct-to-Head Throttle Bodies would cut about 20-30lbs from
the front end. Second, going with CAT Motorsport’s alloy front hubs, and 4-pot calipers, would shave off another 15lbs. and third there were the ultra light MOG carbon fiber seats… Okay, so now you see where this is going.
In the interest of research, I bought an accurate scale that records up to 30lbs. and began the process of weighing
old parts as I remove them and new parts as they arrive from vendors. Unfortunately in the chaos that accompanies
moving into a new house I misplaced a piece of paper where I had logged many of the weights, so the list in this spreadsheet is not complete, but it does give a sense of where weight was saved. How much weight? Well when the car was in Road & Track, they listed the weight as 1405lb. I am not sure how much fuel was on board (and they never returned any of my e-mails on this subject, despite many years as a subscriber - the bastards!) but suffice it to say, the car is now much lighter.
After the rebuild I had the car corner balanced with ~4 gallons of fuel and it tipped the scales at 1239 lb. I later made some additional changes that increased the weight by 6 lb. (rear wheel spacers at 2 lb/ea and a heavier duty fan that was 2 lb heavier), and others that shaved over 22 lb (3-1/4 lb savings from the plastic valve cover, 5lb. savings from the Protech alloy shocks, 11 lb moving from a PC680 battery to an EVO2 LiFePO4 battery, and 3-1/4 lb from the
removal of the upper shock mount truss). So the weight should be down to about 1223 lb.
